The Science of Glycolic Acid: How Exfoliation Supports Skin Renewal

Glycolic acid is one of the most researched exfoliating ingredients in modern skincare. It belongs to the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family and is derived from sugar cane. What sets glycolic acid apart from other AHAs is its small molecular size, which allows it to penetrate the skin more efficiently and work effectively at the surface.

Its primary role is to support exfoliation by loosening the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This allows dull, compacted cells to shed more easily, revealing smoother texture and brighter-looking skin underneath. Over time, this process helps improve uneven tone, refine rough patches, and reduce the appearance of congestion.

Consistent, well-formulated glycolic acid use has also been shown to support skin clarity and radiance. By encouraging regular cell turnover, it helps prevent buildup that can contribute to clogged pores and uneven texture. This renewed surface also allows other skincare ingredients — such as hydrating or brightening actives — to absorb more effectively.

Importantly, glycolic acid is not about stripping the skin. When used at appropriate concentrations and frequencies, it acts as a regulator of healthy skin renewal, supporting smoother, more even skin rather than forcing rapid exfoliation.

Why Glycolic Acid in K-Beauty Is Different — and Here’s Why

While glycolic acid is used globally, Korean skincare approaches it with a focus on balance, comfort, and long-term skin health.

1. Lower, Skin-Respecting Concentrations

K-beauty formulations tend to use glycolic acid at gentler levels, making it suitable for consistent use rather than aggressive exfoliation. This minimizes irritation while still delivering visible texture and tone improvements.

2. Buffered, Barrier-Friendly Formulas

Rather than using glycolic acid alone, Korean products often buffer it with soothing and hydrating ingredients like centella asiatica, panthenol, ceramides, or hyaluronic acid. This helps maintain the skin barrier while exfoliating.

3. Gradual Results Over Time

Instead of aiming for fast peeling or tingling, K-beauty prioritizes gradual resurfacing. This approach supports smoother skin with less risk of sensitivity, dryness, or rebound irritation.

4. Elegant, Layerable Textures

From lightweight toners to essence-like exfoliants, Korean glycolic acid products are designed to layer seamlessly into routines, encouraging consistency — the key to real results.

5. Preventive Skincare Philosophy

In K-beauty, exfoliation isn’t just corrective. Glycolic acid is often used to prevent dullness, congestion, and uneven tone before they become visible concerns.

The Glycolic Acid Essentials (some non-kbeauty options too!)

Some of Our Best Recommendations

Some By Mi

AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum

Isntree

Isntree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence

CosRX

AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid

The Ordinary

Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating and Brightening Daily Toner

Keep In Mind: How to Use Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid is effective, but thoughtful use makes all the difference:

  • Start slow — 1–3 times per week is enough when introducing it

  • Use at night to avoid increased sun sensitivity

  • Always follow with moisturizer to support the skin barrier

  • Wear sunscreen daily — exfoliated skin is more UV-sensitive

  • Avoid layering with other strong actives on the same night

With consistent, mindful use, glycolic acid helps skin look clearer, smoother, and more radiant — without compromising barrier health.